If we had to pick one dish as the perfect representation of food from the Indian subcontinent, it would be the beloved biryani. It is extremely popular with locals who enjoy it as a regular meal item, and of course, at festive occasions that are never complete without it. 

Indian biryani also receives more than just curious interest from people of foreign lands who appreciate its rich, perfectly blended, and balanced flavors. It is not just any rice and meat dish, but rather a global sensation with its layers of fluffy rice and perfectly seasoned, saucy, and tender meat.

Today, we tell the story of Indian biryani, its origin, evolution, and how its globalization gave birth to its many exciting regional varieties. Join us for a flavorful read.

The disputed origins of biryani

Although the popularity of biryani is unmatched, its origin is disputed. Food historians have theories about its origin, evolution, and how it came to be in India. All opinions have some logic to them and a grain of truth; however, it is difficult to find a cohesive view. Here is a humble attempt to do just that. 

There is no doubt that etymological traces of the word biryani reveal roots in more than one Persian language word, e.g., birinj, biryan, and bereshtan. They translate into rice, to fry, and to roast, and allude to the ingredients and cooking methods used to make this rice and meat dish. However, to say the dish is of Persian origin based on this alone may be too straightforward a conclusion. 

Rice and meat preparations have been common since ancient times in parts of the world where these staple ingredients were available. For instance, the nomadic cultures of the Central Asian pasture lands. Over time, invaders, traders, travelers, and pilgrims helped spread recipes and cooking techniques from one rice-growing region to another, inspiring new local versions. 

Apocryphal references suggest that when Persian influence extended to Central Asia, the Middle East, and the Indian subcontinent under Cyrus (550-539 BCE), the Persian-born pilaf also went along. Around 330 BCE, when Alexander defeated the Persians, this rice and meat dish found an ardent foreign admirer who introduced it to other parts of the world as far as the Balkans. Tamil literature from 200 BCE to 200 CE also mentions a rice and meat dish called ‘oonchoru’ or ‘Oon Soru’ that was served to military personnel in the king’s keep in Kerala, South India. This region had an established trade connection with the Arabs of the Persian Gulf. A one-pot rice and meat dish was also popular among armies that invaded medieval India, as it could use any available meat to make a nourishing meal.    

So when biryani found its first documented mention in the famous 15th-century Indian culinary manuscript Nimatnama, as ‘biryan’ (slow-cooked rice), the concept was not alien to the Indian culinary culture. Many variations of the pilaf, the widely accepted precursor to biryani, already existed in the region. Perhaps the Central Asian Turkic rulers of the Delhi Sultanate refined a pilaf recipe, used new and more sophisticated methods of cooking rice, and gave it a name in the empire’s official language – Persian. Or perhaps, the recipe was taken from Khavarnama, an earlier Persian court manuscript depicting local culture with a focus on cuisine and culinary traditions. 

Whichever way ‘biryan’ found its way to the royal kitchens of the Delhi Sultanate, it pre-dated the Mughal Empire. The 16th-century Mughal text, Ain-e-Akbari, supports this view. It lists both the pilaf and ‘biryan’ as rice and meat preparations, and suggests ‘biryan’ was not new to India. 

With Persian pilaf as its precursor, the Persianized Turkic people of Central Asia as its bearers or inventors, and a name with thorough roots in the Persian language, it’d be difficult to say, biryani is not of Persian origin. Whether or not it was born in Persia is regardless. It carries all the marks of the Persian culture that the Sultanate and Mughas were great patrons of.

The evolution of Indian biryani & its many varieties

The Mughals may not have brought this dish to India, but their patronage of Persian culture and their love for great food played a key role in the evolution and popularization of biryani. It was refined in their kitchens to fit the palate of the royals and noblemen. One can only imagine how the royal chefs must have exerted to build an exquisite flavor profile and experimented with cooking techniques. Unlike the pilaf, biryani was layered, more textured, and bolder in flavor.  

From the royal court, the biryani traveled across India. As it arrived in different parts of the region, it was adapted to the local palate, and the use of local ingredients gave birth to its many versions – all covered under the umbrella term Indian biryani.  

Today, around 50 different varieties of biryani exist around the world, each representing the flavors and traditions of its region. In India alone, there are over 30 cultural variations, from the famous Hyderabadi biryani to the lesser-known seafood biryanis from Goa and Kerala. Let us take a look at some popular varieties of this classic dish in India and elsewhere.  

In the Indian Subcontinent… 

• Mughalai biryani: The opulent flavor profile of the Mughalai biryani is a reflection of the royal origin of this version. It uses basmati rice, and the meat is usually mutton or chicken. Yogurt, cream, dried nuts and fruits, and aromatic spices like saffron contribute to its rich flavor and luxurious texture. It is cooked using the ‘pakki’ method. 
• Hyderabadi biryani: Born in the kitchens of the Nizam of Hyderabad, this biryani is perhaps the most iconic in the region – a combo of the Mughal and local culinary traditions. It is made from basmati rice and meat (mutton or chicken). A medley of different spices, with saffron, mint, yogurt, and fried onions, results in its rich flavor. It is made using either of the two Indian biryani methods – the kacchi and pakki. 
• Luknowi or Awadhi biryani: This version of the Indian biryani has its origins in the royal kitchens of the Nawab of Awadh. The rice and meat are cooked separately, layered in a handi, and flavored with aromatics such as cardamom, saffron, and cinnamon. Like its Hyderabadi counterpart, it can be cooked in the pakki or kacchi style.  
• Kolkata biryani: Boasting a more subtle use of spices, the Kolkata version of the Indian biryani is known for its milder taste. The rice is flavored with rose and kewra water, and it also uses potatoes and eggs, which sets it apart from other varieties. The preferred choice of meat is mutton, but chicken is an option. The rice and meat are cooked separately, then layered, and allowed to blend in with other ingredients like fried onions.  
• Bombay biryani: Hailing from the city of Mumbai, this Indian biryani is a classic that includes dried plums, giving this version its signature sweet and tangy taste. Made with mutton or chicken, this biryani also has fried potatoes.
• Delhi biryani: Not as popular as the Hyderabadi and Lucknawi biryanis, it is, however, the closest to the Mughal era versions. These days, local eateries make it with buffalo meat because of how pricy the mutton is. This dish uses a tomato-based yogurt sauce and green chili pickle in its layers. 
• Sindhi biryani: Originating from the Sindh region, this biryani features basmati rice with mutton or chicken. The meat is marinated using yogurt and spices, and cooked with onions, garlic, ginger, etc. Potatoes and green chili are added to the gravy. The dried plums and a generous use of tomatoes add a sweet and tangy layer to its flavor profile. 
• Bangladeshi biryani: The Bangladesh biryani is typically a kacchi biryani, made from mutton or chicken and basmati rice. The raw marinated meat is layered with par-boiled basmati rice and potatoes, and the pot is sealed shut. It is slow-cooked over a low flame, and steaming results in rich layers of flavors. 

Beyond the Indian subcontinent…

‘Biryan’ is the Afghan biryani, and is made by cooking the raw marinated meat and par-boiled rice in layers, with a blend of herbs and spices. It features saffron, dried fruits like raisins, and caramelized carrots. Meat is used in smaller quantities relative to the Indian biryani, and is cut into small pieces. Other West Asian takes on the biryani, such as the Maqbous, Bukhari rice, and Mandi, from Oman, Saudi Arabia, and Yemen, are not too similar to the Indian original. 

In the Far East, we see many versions of this delicacy, inspired by the local palate and ingredients. For instance, the nasi biryani is popular in Malaysia and Singapore, while in the Philippines, we find its adaptation called nasing biringy. The Philippines also has another variety that is inspired by the local version of the Spanish paella, called bringhe.  In Indonesia, the biryani is a descendant of the Afghan kabuli pilaf with a strong influence of the Arab cuisine. It is called the nasi kebuli and is made from rice cooked in goat meat broth, goat milk, ghee, and spices. Khao mok gai is Thailand’s take on Indian biryani. It is not the closest to the original, but there are similarities. It features rice cooked in aromatic herbs and spices, with marinated meat (chicken, beef, or fish). It has a very mild taste and is served with a sauce made of lime, garlic, and chillies. 

Burma, or Myanmar, in the southeast of Asia, also has a rice and meat dish inspired by the Indian biryani. Its name is derived from the Persian word ‘dumpukht’ because it is a slow-cooked dish made from long-grain rice and chicken meat, infused with spices, and dried nuts and fruits.   

Africa also has quite a few variations of this iconic dish, courtesy of the ancient trade ties between the people of the East African coast and South Asia. Indian immigrants to countries like Kenya also played a key role in introducing the dish to wherever they settled. Some of these cultural variations are close to the original, others are a little remote, but each is a unique regional spin influenced by the local palate preferences and available ingredients. 

The Caribbean biryani has a perfect fusion of classic Indian and tropical island flavors. It is spicy and smoky from a whole lot of Jerk seasoning, and uses basmati rice, meat, coconut milk, and Scotch bonnet peppers. A clever mix of Indian and Jamaican culinary traditions, it is served with fried plantains or mango salsa for a tropical twist. 

How to make Indian biryani: Ingredients & techniques

Biryani has a super-rich global culture, and its ingredients vary according to the region where a specific version is born. 

For instance, in some coastal areas, prawns or fish may be used as protein instead of the traditional choices like mutton, beef, and chicken. The rice is preferably basmati or another long-grain variety. Biryani also uses a ton of spices, including bay leaf, nutmeg, mace, cinnamon, cloves, cardamom, black peppercorns, mint, ginger, and garlic. Nuts, seeds, and dried fruits – plums, raisins, almonds, cashew nuts – are also used, especially in the West Asian versions. Some Indian biryani versions also use potatoes. In Southeast Asian varieties, we also see pandan leaves that are added to infuse the rice with aroma. 

Indian biryani is traditionally made in either the kacchi (raw) or the pakki (cooked) style, and the dumpukht technique sits at the core of both.

1. Kacchi biryani: This biryani type uses all raw ingredients, including meat and rice. The meat is marinated for long hours before being added to a heavy-bottomed pot along with pre-soaked basmati rice and all the spices. Then the pot is sealed shut, preferably with a thin strip of dough going around the opening, and cooked on a low flame for hours. This way of slow-cooking is called dum-phukt and allows the mixture to cook in steam and the meat juices, making the meat fall-off-the-bone tender and the rice super flavorful. It is advisable not to open the pot until the perfect time, which, of course, requires practice and expert assessment. 
2. Pakki biryani: For the pakki biryani type the meat mixture and rice are made in separate pots and only cooked halfway through. The rice and meat mixture is then layered in a separate pot, and at this point, other ingredients like saffron and crunchy fried onions are added in between the layers. The pot is covered and its contents allowed to cook in ‘dum’ or steam, until they blend in harmoniously. For this type of Indian biryani, you don’t need to marinate the meat for long hours, the process is quicker and easier. 

Concluding words…

Biryani has a vibrant global footprint, and you’ll be hard-pressed to find a more celebratory dish in as many regional cultures. Almost every food culture has its rice and meat dish, but none that can beat the Indian biryani in how it transcends its culinary value and becomes a manifestation of a sentiment shared by many food lovers across the globe. What traveled from Persia as pilaf, evolved and transformed in the courts of the Persianized Turkic rulers of the Delhi Sultanate and Mughal Empire, is today the perfect delicacy to enjoy wherever you find an authentic version.