Desi street food—from local stalls to global streets

There is hardly a city in the world today where street food isn’t available. It has been a part of human culture since urban settlements appeared. Thousands of years ago, fried fish was sold on the streets of Alexandria, Egypt’s ancient port city. Fried fish also became a popular street food in ancient Greece. Archeological evidence shows that the Romans had street kitchens where the general populace ate. The ancient Chinese and Aztecs, too, had their own street food infrastructure. 

In India, street food traces its roots way back in history. Remains of the Indus Valley civilizations show that communal ovens were used, suggesting a culture of shared meals. During the Mauryan Empire around 300 BCE, in the area of today’s Patna, there were street food vendors. Documents from that time mention laws governing its sale. Just as in other regions of the world, today’s desi street food has evolved over centuries.

Street food—traditionally sustenance for the poor 

Street food in different regions of the world belongs to a variety of culinary traditions, but there is one common element. It was primarily prepared and sold to workers and poor people. The poor who lived in the streets or communities that could not afford houses with kitchens relied on street food vendors for their meals. Furthermore, it cost less than preparing meals at home. It tended to be simple and filling, and basic sustenance for the urban poor. 

Another common feature of street food around the world is the spirit of innovation that has marked its evolution. People have found creative ways to craft new flavors with locally available ingredients. Thus, they have not only kept the tradition thriving but also contributed to the creation of recipes that eventually became symbols of national cuisines. 

Eating snails—from rags to riches 

Digressing a bit from our focus on desi street food, let’s look at the curious example of snails. It was food for the poor that ended up becoming the pride of France. In Europe, snails were eaten thousands of years ago in Spain and Ancient Rome. Rich Romans bred special snails on honey, milk, and spices to eat, while commoners ate garden varieties. The first French recipe for snails appeared in 1390 in a single cookbook titled The Good Wife’s Guide. While snails were consumed in France, the food was looked down upon as an inexpensive source of protein for the poor. 

Things changed dramatically when, in 1814, a French diplomat hosted a dinner for Russian Tsar Alexander I, after Napoleon’s defeat. The chef who prepared the banquet was Marie-Antoine Carême from Burgundy. He served a dish of snails prepared with garlic, parsley, and butter. The Tsar loved the dish, and it became hugely popular. The humble street food of the poor in France became a culinary delicacy and a symbol of French cuisine. May 24 is National Escargot Day in France!

Kathi roll—a desi street food goes global 

When it comes to gaining worldwide popularity, desi street foods are no different. 

Kathi (kati) rolls are a great example of a desi street food that achieved global popularity despite its humble origin. These rolls were first served in Kolkata in 1932 at the Nizam restaurant. Originally, the kathi roll consisted of kebabs wrapped in a flaky paratha, making the meal easier to carry and eat. Over time, the fillings became more versatile—paneer, vegetables, eggs, fish, chicken tikka, etc., are among the many popular variations. 

The kathi roll is one of the best-loved street foods of Kolkata, now popular across India and also in demand globally. In the US, its fillings satisfy local tastes, such as avocado and barbecue chicken. It is a popular Indian-American fusion version of the Kolkatan classic. In Europe, popular variations of the filling include falafel and vegetables. Fusion kathi rolls in East Asia feature a combo of Korean-style kimchi and Japanese teriyaki. 

Desi street food rises to Michelin-star status

If you grew up as an Indian or Pakistani, you are probably very fond of ‘chaat’. The word literally means ‘to lick’, maybe suggesting that the food is finger-licking good. Chaat is a savory snack that comes in a wide variety. It combines savory, sweet, and tangy flavors with heat and a crunch. 

Delhi-style chaat is made with roasted, diced sweet potatoes in lemon juice, served with onions, pomegranate, and tomatoes, seasoned with spices. But in ‘Chaat’, a Michelin plate Indian restaurant in Hong Kong, this desi street food is served with a Michelin twist to it. Sweet potatoes are cut into crispy cubes served with tamarind chutney, delicately chopped onions, tomatoes, pomegranate, and cilantro. 

Lahore chana chaat—a desi street food favorite 

Lahore is often seen as a smaller-scale twin city to Delhi, and it has its own version of chaat. The most common chaat in Lahore is the chana or chickpea chaat. Boiled chickpeas are mixed with fresh tomatoes, red onions, boiled and diced potatoes, and cilantro. This mix of humble ingredients is seasoned with ‘chaat masala’. 

Basic chaat masala includes coriander seeds, black salt, amchur or dry mango powder, dried pomegranate seeds, black pepper, and sugar. Sometimes, carom seeds and red chili powder are also added. You can buy chaat masala, or you could make your own batch and keep it in a jar to use several times. Izza Cheema gives us a quick and easy recipe here. 

Another essential part of the chaat is tamarind chutney. You can use store-bought chutney, but you can also make it at home. Here is a recipe to make Lahori chana chaat in tamarind chutney at home. 

Desi street foods of Mumbai and Karachi 

One of the most popular desi street foods of Mumbai is Vada Pav. It is also called the Mumbai burger. Vada is a potato fritter made from boiled and mashed potatoes with a lot of spices and seasoning. Pav is a soft bun. The word is linked to the Portuguese word pão for bread. The fritter is also called batata vada, a reference to the origin of the potato that was also brought to India by the Portuguese. 

Vada Pav became the poor man’s burger in Mumbai. Boiled and mashed potatoes seasoned with mustard seeds, turmeric, coriander, and other spices are deep-fried and served sandwiched in a soft bun, with minty and sweet sauces and red chili powder. Archana Mundhe brings us a recipe for making this desi street food at home. 

Karachi and Mumbai are often regarded as closely resembling each other. Both are commercial hubs with ports. It is no wonder then that Mumbai’s Vada Pav has its counterpart in Karachi in the form of another vegetarian burger called the Bun Kabab. The patty is made of split Bengal gram, seasoned and batter-fried. It is served in a bun with chutney and fresh salad. Here is a recipe to make it at home. 

Traditionally, the Karachi Bun Kabab was made with a lentil-only patty, but today the most popular bun kabab version sandwiches the shami kabab. 

Chole bhature—a desi street food from Punjab 

While there is confusion regarding the origin of this desi street food, it is clear that it originated in Punjab and became popular in both India and Pakistan. Richly flavored chickpea gravy was already popular during the Mughal era, influenced by Persian and Turkish culinary traditions mingling with Indian cooking, but this street food emerged much later.

The dish consists of chole or chickpeas in gravy, eaten with bhature, which is puffy, deep-fried leavened bread. It is commonly served with an onion salad, chutney, and mango pickle. 

Concluding words…

Cities around the world have ancient streets and markets where food is sold for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, as well as snacks. Savory and sweet delights are served from stalls, roadside restaurants, and even by vendors moving around on carts or bicycles. Such areas attract locals and tourists alike. 

In recent decades, street food has experienced a renaissance. Improved hygiene standards, renovation of old bazaars, healthy versions of once less healthy recipes, and the creation of new and innovative fusion street foods are setting new culinary trends. Street food is still affordable and budget-friendly, but it is no longer the food of the poor to be looked down upon. It is a vital element of a city’s cultural life. Desi street food takes its rightful place in this revolution, reflecting the richness of a city’s culinary scene, in the mingling of different culinary influences and the shaping of a unique urban flavor within the melting pot of a metropolitan city!